Below is an article written by Cruz Tours customer Jean Wiblin. Jean wrote this article for a C of E magazine in the North East of England
I have long wished to go on a real pilgrimage during one of the main Festivals in the Church's year. This year I was fortunate enough to know someone else of a like mind who was going on pilgrimage to Caravaca de la Cruz in Southern Spain, and so I joined Cathy Jackson and Doreen Neal and set off (having booked last August) at 7.20am from Newcastle airport (direct flight to Murcia) on the day before Palm Sunday, all excited and a wee bit apprehensive - after all, I don't speak Spanish and I wasn't sure what to expect. I need not have worried, Tony and Teresa Higgins, who organise these tours in Spain, took charge of us and from landing in Spain all we had to think about were the happenings of Holy Week and our place in them. The food and the accommodation were excellent and the whole of the story of Holy Week unfolded before us.
On Saturday afternoon, Tony explained the programme of the week to us, and, after a visit to the exhibition of the floats (depicting the events of Holy Week) we attended a Passover Meal in the Friary, to which the people of the town were invited (as well as us). This was all explained to us as it happened, by Tony and Teresa, who live in Caravaca with their three children. It began at 8.30pm and ended with a Jewish circular dance in the cloisters! The meal consisted of bitter herbs and unleavened bread, chopped almonds, honey and raisins plus wine and prayers lasted over three hours! A long day!
On Palm Sunday, after breakfast, we walked to the Convent Church of the Carmelite Sisters (which is due to be converted into a luxury Hotel) for the Palm Sunday mass, collected our Palms and Olive branches and joined in the procession as far as the Easter Market, where we had coffee and tea etc., until we heard shouting and dashed over to see what it was all about. It was the entry into Jerusalem by the crowds of people and children with Jesus and the most gorgeous donkey. Unbelievably moving. The rest of the day was free, except for lunch and supper at 8.30pm. We needed the free time in order to "gird up our loins" for the week ahead.
On Monday, we 'did' Caravaca, including a history of the town and its famous former inhabitants - St. John of the Cross and St. Teresa of Avila. We shopped in the market and attended Mass in the Friary. Many people attended the midday Mass and there was a great deal of Holy informality which surprised me, but then Carmelite rules of hospitality fit in with their rule of hospitality. The afternoon was free until supper at the Friary at 8.30pm. This was a late time to eat for us three golden oldies, but it is early for the majority of Spaniards who are just getting into the 'swing' at that time!
Tuesday dawned bright and sunny - the days were warm and sunny, but the evenings and early mornings were chilly. After breakfast we met in the car park attached to the Friary, and Tony drove us to the Holy Shrine dedicated to St. Eulalia - a Franciscan shrine dedicated to a 14-year-old Christian virgin martyr of the 3rd century - a curious building built into the rocks, but unbelievably beautiful, not in the least gaudy but with an aura of holiness. This young saint was tortured rather horribly by the Romans because she refused to worship the Roman gods. From there we climbed (by car!) gradually up a long mountain road on the way of the cross to the enormous statue of Christ which dominated the mountain and the huge valley below - reminiscent of the statue on the mountain in Rio de Janeiro. The views were magnificent -lunch (one of our party had a birthday) was a festive affair complete with birthday cake beautiful and delicious - and after tasting the water from St. Eulalia's well (said to have miraculous qualities) we made our way through more glorious countryside to the 'County' city of Murcia to see the lovely Cathedral and to see the first of the Holy Week processions, complete with vendors of ice cream, sweets and balloons. The procession, which took an hour to pass us, was quite magnificent - 5 floats carried by men and women on their shoulders, all in medieval dress with pointed headdresses with holes for eyes and mouth, and all moving in rhythm with the drums - the crowds swayed to the rhythm - it was very moving and very solemn and was followed by the crowds carrying candles and torches. Back to the Friary for midnight!
The next three evenings-were taken to similar processions, with floats beautifully bedecked with flowers and lights, again depicting the scenes of Holy Week; with men, women and children in medieval dress and hoods, throwing sweets to the crowds in the narrow streets - the atmosphere was both frightening and yet tingling. The rhythm, of the drummers, the swaying of the fioats and the tread of feet were almost hypnotising. Each evening was a revelation and the Good Friday procession was Christ in a glass coffin, and was accompanied by a drum and a flute. During the day we visited museums and the magnificent Basilica, where the Caravaca Cross is kept. The story of the cross, which is said to represent part of the true cross on which Jesus was crucified, is enclosed in a jewelled case and has a special service each day. We were fortunate to be there when it was venerated on Good Friday. We were all swept up in the emotions of this holiest and most solemn of weeks. Words cannot adequately cover what our eyes saw and our ears heard. If you are looking for what I was looking for in Holy Week, do go to Caravaca at either Holy Week or Epiphany - it's not all solemn and sad - Caravaca is near to the Mediterranean and the weather is good.
I can wholeheartedly recommend this pilgrimage holiday.
Jean Wiblin.
